The La Lecciaia 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (with 25,000 bottles made) shows some mild astringency and open-knit tannins that are characteristic of this scorching hot and drought-prone vintage. Fruit is sourced from across 20 hectares of vines. Despite that ample availability, this wine ultimately weighs in with an informal and accessible presentation for near-term drinking. It closes with a hint of sourness.

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (with 25,000 bottles made) reflects the basic qualities of this classic vintage with firm lines, elegant aromas and deep flavor intensity. Compared to the two annata wines (both from 2017) also tasted in this flight, this Riserva is more compact, streamlined and polished. Dried cherry and crushed flowers segue to limestone and dried garden herb.

The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (with 20,000 bottles made) offers broad and far-reaching aromas of bold cherry, black currant, spice and tobacco. This Riserva is fermented in stainless steel and aged in large oak casks for 36 months. Thanks to that traditional winemaking approach and the qualities of this cool and classic vintage, this wine offers all the major Brunello characteristics at a more reasonable price point. It shows lingering ripeness and power.

The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is evolving quickly and tastes older than its real age. I would not suggest a long drinking window for this near-term Sangiovese. Dried cherry and fig segue to smoke, tar and cured leather. The wine glides quickly over the palate leaving little lasting intensity.

The La Lecciaia 2011 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a dark and brooding wine that is infused with tar, smoke, chewing tobacco and licorice. There's plenty of thick fruit and plum to add texture and fiber to the overall ensemble. This vintage shows a marked difference to 2012 in terms of the darkness and syrupy ripeness of this wine. Don't wait too long to drink this Riserva. All that generous primary fruit probably won't last too much longer.