The 2007 Cotes du Roussillon La Coume Marie derives from Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah, raised partly in barrel and partly in tank. Vanilla and licorice mingle with bright black raspberry and cherry in the nose and on the palate, where however the texture is surprisingly creamy. Spicy, resinous notes engendered by barrel complement the other flavors, and the finish offers a satisfying combination of richness and exuberance, if not striking focus or sheer length. This should be lovely over the next 2-3 years. I found the tannins on the otherwise interesting 2006 disappointingly drying, a condition that plagued other Parce wines as well.Marc, Pierre, and Thierry Parce teamed up with Vincent Legrand and a range of small growers in 2001 to found this ambitious Maury winery, whose facilities are housed in an ancient institutional building of the Knights Templar. The Parces are champions of Grenache Gris, but I found an August-harvested Grenache blend from high-elevation schist vineyards in St. Paul de Fenouillet, west of Maury overtly woody, and disappointingly lacking in just the mineral dimensions I would have anticipated. I had some of the reservations noted elsewhere (see under -Domaine de la Rectorie-) with their reds and sweet wines. (My survey of 2006s and 2007s at the Parces- two estates was, admittedly, far from complete.)A Jack Siler Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 45 45 23 59

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