The solidly made Chiantis reviewed in this segment are not the most opulent or hedonistic, but will be admired by those who prefer Chiantis with grip and tannin. The 1994 Fiorentini Riserva exhibits a dark plum color, cedar, asphalt, and smoky notes in the nose, coarse tannin in its rustic, medium-bodied personality, and an austere, hard finish. If it drops some of the tannin, it will be far better balanced. For now, this is a good but tough-textured Chianti to drink over the next 5-6 years. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900