As I have called attention to on previous occasions, in an effort to escape not just the tyranny of maximum 9 grams residual sugar, but also of German consumers who fear any wine that's not legally trocken, many growers have begun tapping the sizzle of -Alte Reben- (-old vines-) to sell dry-tasting Riesling that may or may not be legally trocken, and in Leitz's case, not only his 2007 Rudesheimer Berg Kaisersteinfels Riesling Alte Reben - from ancient quartzite-laced terraces in Rudesheim's nose bleed section that have been re-born through his inspiration and labors - but in future his other top dry wines as well, will treat -old vines- in this rather perverse, coded fashion. Only a German consumer would insist on knowing whether the wine was legally trocken before being willing to purchase (or even taste!) it, and now - in principle, at least, seduced by the -old vines- magic - he or she won't ask. A remarkable aromatic mingling of maraschino, pistachio, almond, distilled pit fruits, and Normandy cider usher in a subtly oily, extract-rich, lush, yet kinetic palate. If there is such a thing as perspicuity in wine, here -tis, as its kaleidoscopic diversity of fruits and saline savor stand out in vivid relief. This dramatically intense Riesling contrasts strikingly with the gentle refinement of the equally amazing Berg Roseneck. -Maybe it's a quartzite vintage,- says Leitz with a laugh. Now that at least a small track record is accumulating for Leitz Kaisersteinfels Riesling rendered in this style - the inaugural vintage, 2001, is still superb and energetic - one can begin to project that a wine of this sort might prove versatile and fascinating for at least 10-12 years. Leitz began picking already on September 20, a day earlier than in 2006, but he is the first to admit that after the penury of its predecessor, the higher yields of vintage 2007 were welcome, and to admit as well, that top quality was achieved at the high-volume end of his portfolio only thanks to the aberently long ripening season. (For notes on Leitz's least-expensive, highest-volume, and highly-successful 2007 wines, consult issue 178.) -We were the first to pick and the last, too,- he insists. -I place great importance on that. As far as I'm concerned it's a great reward of global warming that we don't have to wait, like we used to, until October 10 to start harvesting, knowing that you probably had to get finished within 20 days. The climate has helped us to be able to play with the dates of picking- for any given parcel or to essay any given style. Speaking of style, Leitz was phenomenally successful this year in both dry and sweet formats, but essayed just two nobly sweet wines. The fate of an Auslese from the Berg Roseneck with which he expressed dissatisfaction had not yet been determined when I last visited, and a December 6 -Nikolauswein- from the Klosterlay (-we were planning to make Eiswein but lost our nerve,- comments Leitz) was still fermenting.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300