A metaphorically cool and rather Muscat-like aura of resinous herbs, elder flower, cassis, and white peach in Alzingers’ 2010 Riesling Smaragd Hollerin is reflected on a firm, juicy palate, with saliva-inducing salinity and a seemingly crystalline mineral interaction rendering the finish fascinating, if for now at least, relatively lean and discreet. Look for this to be worth following – and probably to gain in allure – over the next 6-8 years. The Alzingers didn’t begin harvesting until the third week of October in 2010 and continued until November 18. Riesling Federspiel alone was de-acidified (as must). Leo Alzinger senior confirmed the judgment of other Wachau veterans that there was no known precedent for the combination of high acidity; sugar; and extract with genuine phenolic ripeness and next to no botrytis. (Somehow I missed out, incidentally, on tasting this year’s Liebenberg Riesling Smaragd.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300