The 2006 Donna Lisa Riserva, the estate's top wine, is 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera aged in relatively new French oak barrels. I understand the temptation to give the most important wine lavish oak, but that is an approach that backfires here. The oak completely overwhelms the fruit and leaves the wine with hard tannins that aren't likely to ever resolve themselves. To be fair, the 2006 Donna Lisa was made before the arrival of oenologist Riccardo Cotarella. Still, the words 'simpler is better' have never been more true than they are here. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. Quality continues to improve at this venerable estate. The wines have become far more consistent since the arrival of oeonologist Riccardo Cotarella a few years back. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2005 Donna Lisa Rosso Riserva is a blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera aged in French oak. Here the fruit is dark, rich and weighty, while hints of licorice and leather add complexity on the close. The French oak gives the Riserva much of its textural volume, but frankly I find just as much beauty in the Salice Salentino Rosso Riserva 50th Vendemmia. Puglia’s indigenous red varieties are so fascinating; they hardly need much make up to reveal their beauty. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. These new releases from Leone de Castris are some of the finest wines I have ever tasted from this property. Consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarella arrived in 2006 but only began making the wines from start to finish in 2008. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Here’s a bold and spicy red wine from Puglia with luscious dark concentration and penetrating aromas of black cherry, prune and toasted almond. It delivers a firm mouthfeel with well-integrated tannins and acidity. The historic Leone de Castris winery is undergoing a fresh makeover with wines styled by Riccardo Cotarella. ——M.L.(12/1/2009)—— 90