The estate’s 2007 Pinot Gris Vigne Brulant is surprisingly rich for this variety, especially considering the wine saw no oak. Layers of tropical fruits, smoke and minerals are all melded together in an elegant, generous white of notable class. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2006 Pinot Gris Vigne Brulant is made in a more opulent style than the 2005. Its balance tends towards a rich expression of tropical fruit, smoke and minerals. It offers superb length on the palate and an engaging personality. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2016. Les Cretes is undoubtedly the best-known estate in the Valle d-Aosta. Proprietor Costantino Charrere makes a wide range of wines from both indigenous and international varieties.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The stainless-steel fermented 2005 Pinot Gris Vigne Brulant is sweet and expressive on the palate where it offers honeyed, perfumed apricot and mineral notes with a lovely tension between the wine’s fruit and its structural components. This superbly well-balanced, elegant and understated wine has enough freshness to drink well for at least another few years. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2012. Les Cretes is undoubtedly the best-known estate in the Valle d’Aosta. Proprietor Costantino Charrere makes a wide range of wines from both indigenous and international varieties. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799