A pure expression of Gaglioppo, the Librandi 2017 Cirò Rosso Classico takes a very simple and refreshing approach. The wine sets out to offer easy aromas of red berry, tar and grilled herb. Not much else is needed. This is a quick-drinking, lean-bodied red to pair with chips and salsa. Some 350,000 bottles were made.

Librandi offers one of the most stripped down and purest expressions of Gaglioppo on the market today. The 2014 Cirò Rosso Classico is a very informal wine that, served slightly chilled, could pair with fried zucchini flowers or crispy rice balls. The wine opens to a lean garnet color with aromas of sour cherry and thorny raspberry.

Librandi's base red offers a great beginner's taste for those who are interested in exploring Calabria's Gaglioppo grape. The 2013 Cirò Rosso Classico opens to medium consistency and a pretty ruby color that glows with Pinot Noir-like luminosity. The bouquet marches to the beat of its own drum, however, with pressed rose, spice, dark mineral, tar and resin. There's even a distant whiff of black olive at the back.

If you want to taste an authentic wine from Calabria, Librandi’s Classico Ciro is for you. It’s a light and tonic red, with a light ruby color and fragrant aromas of berry fruit and dried rose. It makes an easy match to seafood and pasta and carries a very attractive price tag too.——M.L.(5/1/2009)—— 86