The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes is showing well, and indeed, this may well be the one Carillon 2009 that surpasses its 2008 counterpart. Unfurling in the glass with an inviting bouquet of buttered orchard fruit, white peach, blanched almonds and fresh croissants, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit, lively acids and an expansive finish. This is drinking well today and I'm not sure there's appreciable upside, but it's a delicious bottle.

The 2008 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes is drinking well, unfurling in the glass with notes of crisp yellow orchard fruit, beeswax, mandarin oil and fresh pastry. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and racy. The Carillons' vines in Combettes were 17 years old in 2008, and this bottling doesn't display the concentration of the Perrières or Réferts, but it's a lovely wine nonetheless.