The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Folatières has a slightly pithy, pink grapefruit and white peach scented bouquet that is nicely focused. The palate is very well balanced with an almost waxy veneer, luscious orange peel and melon notes loitering underneath and a dab of fresh ginger on the aftertaste. This is a very strong showing that bodes well for the future, perhaps the pick of Mounir's Pulignys.

The 2013 Puligny Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has an exuberant peach and dried apricot nose that Mounier quite justifiably compared to a Chateau Grillet. The palate is medium-bodied and packed the rafters with flavor: white peach, mandarin and orange rind with a flamboyant finish. Check this out. One of the best Folatières of the vintage.

The 2012 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Folatières has a more reserved bouquet, but there is more breeding here compared to the Champs Canet with engaging cold stone, Alpine streams and citrus lemon scents. The palate is well balanced and a little fatter on the entry, a little peachy with apricot coming through the Condrieu-like finish. This could turn out to be a Folatières with substance.

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Folatieresis the most tense and inward of the Puligny premiers crus today. It boasts a serious core of underlying minerality, bright fruit and tremendous length. At this same time it is a bit raw. If the typical Folatieresfinesse emerges, the wine may merit a higher score in the future. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Proprietor Mounir Saouma thinks 2010 is a great vintage and therefore he wanted to push the boundaries as far as possible by slowing down the maturation of the wines. He kept temperatures very low in the cellar to encourage slow, long malolactic fermentations and long elevage in barrel. Among the unusual practices Saouma adopted with the 2010s is stirring the lees a full year after the harvest. At the time of my visit, in July 2012, none of the 2010 whites had been bottled, the only estate in Burgundy I know of that had still not bottled their 2010s. The wines Le Moine 2010s are big, rich and powerful. In many cases, the 2010s appear to have structures that are in the realm of reds. A number of the wines also show slight elements of botrytis that will become more pronounced over time. In addition to these wines, I also tasted the 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot, which was too closed to properly evaluate. Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (919) 769-3000

The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres shows off succulent apricots, peaches and flowers in a fairly rich, unctuous style. Layers of expressive, sweet perfume add dimension and depth through to the opulent, generous finish. This is another of the more overt, flashy wines in the lineup. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. This is another stunning set of wines from proprietors Mounir Saouma and Rotem Brakim. Saouma and Brakim practice some of the most risk-taking winemaking in Burgundy, especially with regards to elevage. The wines see extended aging on the lees with minimal sulfur. I tasted the 2009s in late June 2011. At the time the wines had never been racked. Readers should note that I accidentally omitted a number of wines from my reviews of the estate’s 2009 reds, in particular the wines from Vosne-Romanee. Those notes are now posted on the site. My tasting concluded with two wines served blind. These turned out to be two 2004 Meursaults. The first wine was made with a pneumatic press and aged with 4 liters of lees per barrel, the second wine was made with a mechanical press and went into barrel with 8 liters of lees. Both wines were aged 18 months and bottled by hand. As it turns out, wine #2 was considerably fresher and much more nuanced than wine #1. Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (919) 769-3000