The 2014 Corton Blanc Grand Cru has a slightly withdrawn bouquet at the moment. The palate is better with grapefruit and a twist of bitter lemon on the entry, quite linear in style with touches of orange zest and mandarin towards the finish. It just needs more conviction, a greater sense of purpose that I hope will eventually be shown in bottle.

The 2012 Corton Blanc Grand Cru comes from two parcels. It has a precise, minerally bouquet with touches of lime flower and mineral that unfolds in the glass. The palate is well balanced with good depth, well-judged acidity and a nonchalant, lilting mineral finish. Fine.

The 2011 Corton Blanc Grand Cru has a precise bouquet of scents of dried apricot, lemon sherbet and white flowers that unfurls with time. The palate is pointed and delicately spiced on the entry. This flows nicely across the mouth, though perhaps I would have liked just a little more nervosite toward the finish. Otherwise, this is a very fine Corton Blanc. Drink 2017-2030. Prior to launching into Maison Lucien de Moine’s 2012 reds with irrepressible winemaker Mounir Saouma, we revisited some of his 2011s that are now in bottle. To recap, Mounir is one of the last Burgundy producers to bottle his wines, since he is a great believer in extended elevage. There is a clutch of outstanding wines in this vintage, particularly at the grand cru level, where one must admire the consistency across the board. As always, readers are reminded that Lucien Le Moine’s wines are made in a stringently reductive method, therefore they always need more decanting time than other growers. Importers: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000, Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; tel. (650) 328-6639

The 2010 Corton Blanc boasts superb intensity, power and richness. This is a decidedly muscular, full-bodied style of Corton loaded with expressive fruit. Floral overtones add an element of lift, but this remains a rather big, at times unrestrained, wine bristling with pure raw energy. In 2010, the Corton Blanc is made from the parcels; Grandes Loliores Rognet and Vergennes. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. Proprietor Mounir Saouma thinks 2010 is a great vintage and therefore he wanted to push the boundaries as far as possible by slowing down the maturation of the wines. He kept temperatures very low in the cellar to encourage slow, long malolactic fermentations and long elevage in barrel. Among the unusual practices Saouma adopted with the 2010s is stirring the lees a full year after the harvest. At the time of my visit, in July 2012, none of the 2010 whites had been bottled, the only estate in Burgundy I know of that had still not bottled their 2010s. The wines Le Moine 2010s are big, rich and powerful. In many cases, the 2010s appear to have structures that are in the realm of reds. A number of the wines also show slight elements of botrytis that will become more pronounced over time. In addition to these wines, I also tasted the 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot, which was too closed to properly evaluate. Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (919) 769-3000