The 2009 Lacrima di Morro d'Alba Rubbjano is flat-out delicious. It boasts stunning depth, with endless layers of blue and black fruit that saturate the palate. The higher-toned, exotic aromatics of Lacrima di Morro d'Alba are very much present, but they are balanced by the sheer richness of the fruit. This is a fabulous wine from Giusti. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2017. Importer: Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010

The 2008 Lacrima di Morro d'Alba Rubbiano has more than enough fruit to balance some of the quirkier elements of this indigenous grape. The aromas and flavors flow together nicely in this textured, exotic red. French oak gives the wine an additional dimension of richness and volume that works well here. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. These two wines from Luigi Giusti showcase Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, a native red grape that is going through a massive resurgence of interest. Importer: Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010

The 2007 Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Rubbjano is a gorgeous wine laced with dark fruit, sweet herbs, spices and violets, all of which are supported by fine, silky tannins. Some of the wilder elements of Lacrima di Morro d’Alba have been tamed; what remains is an exceptionally pretty, beautiful wine. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Importer: Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010

The 2005 Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Rubbjano is a dense, full-bodied red endowed with plenty of expressive notes that are typical of this quirky grape. Sweet, medicinal herbs, tobacco and dark red berries are some of the nuances that flow from the glass. The wine possesses plenty of length on the palate and lovely density in its fruit. Some of the exotic aromas and flavors may come as a surprise to readers who aren’t familiar with Lacrima Morro d’Alba (and I am guessing that is most people) but the wine offers terrific energy in a polished style. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Importer: Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010