Dark and rather weighty, more of a light red in color and texture. After a rather mute nose, the even-yet gently grainy-palate shows wood over dry, mineral-tinged Grenache fruit, and the flavors extend to the medium long finish. It's an interesting exercise, but the wood and weight don't sing as lightness and liveliness might. ——M.M.(2/1/2002)—— 84