The 2007 Coteaux du Tricastin La Ciboise reveals plenty of kirsch, spice box, and roasted herb notes in a medium-bodied, richly fruity, well-made style that is perfect for drinking over the next 1-2 years. Michel Chapoutier fashions some terrific low-end wines that sell for a song, and in 2007, they are of exceptionally high quality. The handful of 2008s I tasted also look very good for the vintage. These are sleeper selections, especially his La Ciboise and Estubiers from the Coteaux du Tricastin.Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Somewhat sandwiched between the southern and northern Rhone regions, the bistro-styled, inexpensive 2006 La Ciboise from the Coteaux de Tricastin is a fruit-driven wine, light and ideal for uncritical quaffing or a simple picnic. It is mostly Grenache. With twenty vintages under his belt, Michel Chapoutier and his impressive winemaking staff go from strength to strength. These are among the world’s greatest wines, especially the single vineyard wines, many of which will last 50 or more years.The 2006 reds from Chapoutier display good acidity and freshness. If they lack the powerful tannic structures of the 2005s, and perhaps some of that vintage’s density, they are certainly not light wines. It is a vintage of finesse and concentration, but with considerable up-front charm. Again, 1991 is a useful historic reference. They are the perfect foil for those buying 2005s, which will require deferred gratification. The single-vineyard, or as Chapoutier calls them, the “Selections Parcellaires” wines, are all aged in small barrels, often 100% new oak, and bottled with neither fining nor filtration. Production is relatively small, with the tiniest cuvee, the Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonnieres usually 200-325 cases, and the rest of the single-vineyard wines averaging around 480-625 cases. The largest is usually the St.-Joseph Les Granits or the Ermitage Le Pavillon, which can be as high as 1,000 or so cases in an abundant vintage. Again, the 2005s all exhibit the vintage’s density, tannic structure, and long-term aging potential. At the same time, the 2006s at Chapoutier remind me of 1991, initially an underrated vintage of wines with ideal balance. If they lack the pure power and structure of 2005, they are well-served by their purity and equilibrium. There are four single-vineyard cuvees of Ermitage. Production is small, running from about 275-300 cases of Les Greffieux, 480-500 of Le Meal, 800-1,100 for Le Pavillon, and 200-600 for L’ErmiteImporter: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

The blend of equal parts Syrah and Grenache and more of a southern than northern Rhone is the La Cibois from the Coteaux du Tricastin (a region better known for its black truffles). It displays good sweet kirsch notes, plenty of spice, herbs, and earth. It is Provencal in contrast to the other northern Rhones. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

One of the least expensive offerings in this portfolio is the pleasant, 100% Grenache cuvee of 2003 Coteaux du Tricastin La Ciboise. Medium-bodied with plenty of cherry fruit as well as some gritty tannin in the finish, it can be served chilled if desired. Not far from the Rhone Valley, Coteaux du Tricastin is a relatively new appellation. Begun in1961, largely by French citizens who returned to France after the civil war in Algeria, Chapoutier believes this region has potential, and certainly this wine reflects his assessment. As I have said so many times over the last 15 years, the top Chapoutier wines are meant for very long term drinking, and are not designed for immediate gratification. Everything Chapoutier is doing, from his bio-dynamically farmed vineyard to tiny yields, extended fermentations, indigenous yeasts, and no fining or filtration, is done to produce the essence of a vineyard and a vintage. His track record since 1989 and 1990 admirably proves that these are indeed remarkable wines made by a young genius who refuses to compromise. Michel Chapoutier has been misunderstood by some of his peers, and there is a lot of jealousy when someone this young is so incredibly talented, but it is an irrefutable fact that these are wines of singular greatness as well as longevity.Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

From a bio-dynamically run estate, this blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah is a straightforward, light to medium-bodied, delicious red offering notes of licorice, cherries, earth, and smoke. A spicy wine, it is best served slightly chilled over its first 2-3 years of life. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900