The darkest in color of the three Pinots before me, the 2021 Coldstream Pinot Noir is imbued with a character of crushed coffee grounds, tobacco resin, cigar box and peat. The fruit is very fine (red cherries, red apples and a hint of plum) and held together by the web of fine tannins in the mouth. This is ethereal and has a haunting quality about it ... ghost like. It's very light, but it lingers.

The 2008 Coldstream Pinot Noir has a pale ruby color and is scented of strawberries, raspberries and moss. High acidity and a low to medium level of fine tannins give a bit more structure to this Pinot with a good amount of flesh lingering into the long finish. Drinking now, it should keep to 2015+. Winemaker Mac Forbes, formerly with Mount Mary, has now gone out on his own purchasing fruit from across Yarra Valley and crafting wines to his own unique style. The Pinots in particular have received split opinions from the locals, some adoring these very pale colored, delicate wines while others think he’s gone too far in the “delicate” direction. While I respect his vision, I do think some of the wines are a little lacking in intensity and structure. For those that like to live life on the light side, I think there’s a lot of pleasure to be had from his Pinots as well as the Chardonnays. Importer: Ronnie Sanders, Vine Street Imports, Philadelphia, PA; tel. (215) 533-9464