The 2013 Puligny Montrachet les Enseigneres, the third vintage released by Gambal after years of more chemical vineyard husbandry by the previous owner, has a taut, linear, limestone and chalk-scented bouquet that is nicely defined. The palate is a little more bashful than the Chassagne Maltoie at the moment, tapering in slightly toward the finish that displays pleasant lime leaf and white pepper scents, almost more Maconnais in style. This is a fine Enseigneres, although my pick would be the Maltroie.
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