This year, the assemblage has been changed to include Mourvèdre instead of Syrah. The 2017 Vacqueyras 1717, which marks the 300th anniversary of the house, is full-bodied and creamy, with intense raspberry fruit wrapped in a vanillin overcoat. Baking spices linger on the long, fresh finish. This should be solid when it's released in a couple of years and drink well for a decade thereafter.

The 2016 Vacqueyras 1717 could be the best wine this historic producer has ever made. A portion of the blend will come from 100-year-old Grenache vines whose grapes were hand-destemmed and barrel-fermented. That sample was incredibly rich and decadent, loaded with warm raspberries and fudge. From another lot, the oak was notable, in the form of cinnamon toast, but it perfectly complemented the wine's full-bodied nature and ripe black cherries. The tannins are supple, yet these lots show crisper acids and longer finishes than the sample of the 2015.

The oak was less noticeable in the barrel sample of Grenache destined for the 2015 Vacqueyras 1717 than in the 2014. The 2015 is rich, plummy and slightly warm, with supple but more concentrated tannins and fruit. It's not at the level of the 2016, but it's close.

The 2014 Vacqueyras 1717 had yet to be bottled at the time of my visit, as the cuvée normally spends up to 30 months in new oak. The sample of Grenache I tried looked exceptional. Although a bit marked by smoke and vanilla, it showed supple dark fruit and an appealing note of licorice. According to Arnoux, this will represent approximately 80% of the wine, with the rest made up of Syrah.

More modern-styled, the 2012 Vacqueyras 1717 is a partially destemmed blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre that’s all from vines over 50 years in age. Aged in new barrels for 20-26 months, it needs time to integrate its wood component, yet offers superb aromas and flavors of sweet cassis, raspberry, spice-box, licorice and hints of herbs. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered on the palate, it has great fruit, solid mid-palate richness and an impressive finish. Give it a year or two and drink it through 2022. This large estate produces a bevy of rich, fruit-forward efforts that remain more than reasonably priced. Looking at the 2011s, this is a solid vintage here and the wines make the most of the vintage, with upfront fruit and texture. Importer: Grape Expectations, Raleigh, NC; tel. (919) 781-1655