The 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes opens in the glass with aromas of pear, mint, honeycomb, baking spices and toasted bread. Medium to full-bodied, ample and rich, it's a fleshy, open-knit wine that concludes with an oak-inflected finish.

The 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes has a slightly richer, lightly honeyed, more expressive and open bouquet compared to both the Meursault Genevrieres and Les Perrières. The palate is very typical of this vineyard, living up to its name with ample passion fruit, dried pineapple and veins of white chocolate. It maintains fine precision all the way through to the finish. Certainly this is one of the better Meursault Charmes that I have tasted on my travels.

The delightful aromatics of the 1999 Meursault Charmes reveal spices and lovely white fruit scents. Medium-bodied, rich, broad, and plump, this talcum powder and flower-flavored wine exhibits excellent ripeness and balance. Drink it over the next 6 years. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel (212) 818-0770.

In such a potentially blockbuster vintage, it was probably difficult for Drouhin to produce his normally restrained, understated style of burgundy. In some of his offerings, the intensity, opulence, and luxurious fruit of the vintage comes through, while in others, those characteristics are muted and subtle. The three Meursaults exhibited good ripeness, plenty of tasty, opulent fruit, and enough acidity to provide lift and freshness. Bearing in mind the low yields the Meursault appellation benefitted from in 1989, these wines did not appear to be as powerful as many of their peers. However, they do exhibit the Drouhin touch of elegance and finesse. I would opt for drinking them over the next 5-7 years. The 1989 Meursault-Perrieres is the most elegant, and the 1989 Meursault-Charmes the fullest and ripest. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby and Co., New York, NY.