There are two barrels of the 2017 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru (Maison Louis Jadot), a dramatic wine that bursts from the glass with aromas of ripe yellow orchard fruit, mandarin, spices and dried white flowers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ripe and textural, with a fleshy, open-knit profile and a saline finish. This will be a crowd-pleaser in its youth, but with more cut and tension—which it may acquire with further élevage—it would score higher.