Trimbach’s 80% Ottonel 2009 Muscat d’Alsace Reserve smells pungently, penetratingly of sage, spruce needle, and wormwood, mingled with apricot kernel and orange zest that go on to inform a decidedly piquant palate. There is no deficiency in ripeness of flavor, even though the wine harbors barely 12.5% alcohol and is well and truly dry. The finish is a bit brusque yet stimulating. Plan on utilizing this over the next 3-4 years. (Unfortunately, not a bottle could be found of the 2008 during my November, 2010 visit.) “The oenologists were saying in 2009 ‘Oh we have to get approval so that we can add acidity,’ but it was absolutely unnecessary, for us,” notes Pierre Trimbach, who indeed delivered a surprisingly animated collection, albeit one diminished in size by instances of declassification. The Trimbachs compare their 2008s with 1998, adding that there is something of 2001 to them, too. As a group, they are going to further the reputation of wines from this family for rewarding patience.Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

Produced entirely from Muscat Ottonel from the Rouffach sector south of Colmar, the 1998 Muscat Reserve has wonderfully rich, orange-laced aromas. This medium-bodied, satin-textured wine has excellent mouth feel to its mineral, red berry, tangerine, and cherry-flavored character. It is suave and silky, and will make a delicious aperitif wine over the course of the next 3 years. Importer: Seagram Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel; (212) 572-7725.