Petite Sirah is often the most underrated varietal in California, but all you have to do is look at the tasting notes of people who’ve opened 15 and 20-year-old examples, which are usually super-enthusiastic. A classic anti-oxidative style of wine, the 2007 Petite Sirah from Marietta displays blackberry, incense, camphor, and floral-infused blueberry notes. It has very sweet tannins for a Petite Sirah and a rich, full-throttle, petal-to-the-metal mouthfeel. There’s not a hard edge, but the wine is intense, rich, and capable of lasting 15 or more years. It is another great buy from this value-packed portfolio. Tel. (707) 433-2747; Fax (707) 857-4910

The 2006 Petite Sirah looks like blue/purple-colored motor oil. Seriously intense notes of blueberries, blackberries, camphor, and flowers are accompanied by a boatload of tannins, but they are relatively civilized in this big, full-bodied wine. It should soften over the next decade, hold steady for another 10-15 years, and still be alive at age 30. For over three decades one of the great values in dry California red wine has been the non-vintage kitchen sink blend from the Bilbro’s family-owned Marietta Cellars.Tel. (707) 433-2747; Fax (707) 857-4910

The inky/blue/purple-tinged 2005 Petite Sirah reveals surprisingly sweet tannins for a wine from this varietal in addition to notes of blackberries, incense, and graphite, medium to full body, and a silky texture. Drink it over the next decade. Tel. (707) 433-2747; Fax (707) 857-4910