The 2006 Malbec Proprietor’s Reserve spent 20 months in 40% new French oak. Opaque purple-colored, it emits a superb aromatic array of toasty oak, spice box, incense, mineral, black cherry, and black raspberry. Rich and opulent on the palate, this succulent, juicy effort is totally pleasure bent and capable of competing with the best Malbecs from Argentina. Based on this superb and well-priced portfolio of wines, Maryhill Winery merits serious attention.Tel. (877) 627-9445; www.maryhillwinery.com

Dark, smoky and herbal, this wine, the second Malbec from Maryhill, does capture some of that grape’s lovely character. Tart wild berry fruit is cut with sharp acids, and laced with herb and hints of stone. There is a bit of saddle leather showing through the tannins, but not so much as to wipe out the sweet fruit. A persistent finish tastes like fresh picked raspberries. ——P.G.(11/1/2008)—— 88