Finding good Pinot Gris at this price is a challenge, but Matua Valley, part of Beringer-Blass Wine Estates, has hit a home run with its fresh herb- and citrus-laced 2004. There’s just enough plumpness to make it satisfying in the mouth, while the flavors of pear and apple end on a clean, refreshing note. Imported by Beringer Blass. ——J.C.(7/1/2005)—— 87