The 2006 Mourvedre is considerably more substantial. Smoke, earth, mushroom, and spice box make for an alluring bouquet leading to a rustic wine that has plenty of flavor but will never be accused of elegance. It is a well-balanced, well-made wine for serving with ribs and pulled pork. Doug McCrea is one of Washington’s leading proponents of Rhone Ranger style wines. He gets considerable credit for getting Syrah underway in the State. He currently produces 3500 cases from his new winery from some of Washington’s finest terroirs.www.mccreacellars.com

This Mourvedre (with 8% Syrah) is still coming together, but all the right pieces are in place. Young, tight and compact, it opens with tart berry and currant fruit, then shows a distinctive, earthy underpinning. As it unwinds it shows wet earth, graphite, pepper and truffle, balanced and layered but still a bit shut down. Give it a lot of breathing time, or put it away for a couple of years.——P.G.(5/1/2007)—— 90