More red-fruited in style, the 2018 Cote Rotie But de Mont offers up hints of cherries and red raspberries on the nose. It's full-bodied, lush and velvety in feel, with a gentle kiss of vanilla on the lingering finish.

From a lieu-dit located near the southern end of the appellation, just above Maison Rouge, the 2017 Cote Rotie But de Mont features red berries and cherries, plus hints of olives and resinous herbal notes. It's taut and fresh on the palate, medium to full-bodied and marked by bits of roasted meat and mocha on the long, mouthwatering finish.

In addition to the standard lineup (Village, Reserve, C?te Blonde, Lancement and Belle Helene), Stephane has started releasing a boxed set of his single vineyards. Tasting through these is one of the most educational things a reader could do when trying to understanding the diversity and complexity of the appellation of C?te R?tie. These are released in tiny quantities, so I’ll keep the notes brief, but don’t miss a chance to try these wines. Starting with what’s normally the most feminine and forward of the lineup, the 2015 C?te R?tie But de Mont is surprisingly masculine, meaty and smoky in 2015, and offers medium to full-bodied richness and a beautiful elegance on the palate.

As in 2012 and 2015, Stephane released a boxed set of single vineyards in 2013. There are a scant 800 bottles of the 2013 C?te R?tie But de Mont, a charming, medium-bodied, elegant beauty that comes from the southern end of the appellation. Dried flowers, black cherries, raspberries and spice all emerge from the glass, and it’s already impossible to resist.