The inky-colored 2013 C?te R?tie Belle Helene is another beautiful wine that shines more for its purity and elegance than overt power and richness. Black fruits, wood smoke, caramelized meats and hints of beef blood all flow from this full-bodied, mineral-laced, focused and chiseled C?te R?tie that needs 5-7 years of cellaring and will keep for another 15+ years.

A wine that could flirt with perfection at maturity, the 2012 C?te R?tie Cuvée Belle Helene is the polar opposite of the perfumed, finesse styled Lancement and offers a dense, powerful, masculine personality. Inky-colored, full-bodied, sensationally concentrated and still balanced and seamless, it offers a serious bouquet of dark fruits (cassis, black raspberries), crushed rock, charcoal, graphite and wood smoke. The more rounded style of the 2012 vintage gives this a touch of upfront charm, but it really needs 6-7 years of cellaring and will have three decades or more of longevity.

Even better (yet we split hairs here), the 2011 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene, which comes all from the Cote Rozier lieu-dit, possesses a liquid rock-like minerality to go with notions of black raspberry, smoked meat, graphite, black olive and underbrush. The most masculine, firm and concentrated in the lineup, it has full-bodied richness, rocking concentration and masses of ultra-fine tannin that build on the palate. It’s approachable now due to the overall quality of the fruit and tannin, yet it will be better in another couple of years, and drink well for two decades. (Not yet released) One of the next generation of winemakers to come up through the ranks by working with his father, the young, yet talented, Stephane Ogier (who is one of the youngest vignerons in the appellation) has been fully in control at this brilliant estate since around 2003. Covering roughly 7 acres in Cote Rotie, there are new plantings just now coming on line, both in Cote Rotie and in the surrounding regions as well. In addition, they are in the process of building a completely new cellar located on the western edge of Ampuis. There’s lots going on here, and if you’re a young wine lover today, count yourself lucky that there are young vignerons of this caliber out there. Looking at the 2011s, these show slightly more linear profiles than the 2012s, yet both vintages possess fantastic purity of fruit and overall elegant profiles. Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275

The 2010 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene is perfection. In this vintage, Ogier cut back the barrel aging time from 32 months in largely new oak casks to 18 months. Ogier’s remarkable flexibility depending on vintage conditions and the quality of the fruit is admirable. He thinks this may be the greatest bottle of wine he has ever made, and it’s hard to disagree. An inky/purple color is followed by notes of pen ink, graphite, forest floor, licorice and abundant black and blue fruits. There is little evidence of new oak because of the extravagant richness and wealth of ripe fruit. The tannins, acidity, alcohol and wood are perfectly integrated into this exceptional wine. It will benefit from 5-6 years of cellaring and keep for 25-30+ years. (Not yet released) Stephane Ogier, tall and blond with rugged, Brad Pitt-like good looks, is the next generation of young, ambitious, well-traveled children from family-owned estates. Learning his trade and working next to his father, who is now fully retired, Stephane Ogier has moved confidently and dramatically to expand this estate from the Cote Rotie holdings to their vineyards that go into La Rosine and those from Seyssuel that go into l’Ame Soeur. He has also added a St-Joseph cuvee from a small parcel of vines in Malleval, next to his Condrieu holdings. Moreover, readers should not forget the recent white wine offerings from Ogier. The great success for the 2011s is attributable, as Ogier says, to harvesting seven days later than just about everyone else in Cote Rotie, in addition to aggressive green harvesting and farming practices in the vineyards. This is evident across the board as these are some of the finest 2011s I tasted in the Northern Rhone. Ogier has 12 separate Cote Rotie parcels spread along the hillsides of the Cote Blonde and Cote Brune. The 2011s were harvested between September 16 and October 8, and because of Ogier’s conservative farming practices as well as the courage it took to wait to harvest until after the rains, the quality of the fruit is outstanding. The 2010s are all remarkable wines at Ogier. Stephane Ogier also deserves accolades for what he has been able to achieve with his white wine program since he began it in 2007. There are now three cuvees, all outstanding. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275

The 2009 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene is another perfect wine. Made in a completely different style than the more structured, mineral-laced 2010, the 2009 is a flamboyant, exuberant effort with nearly over-the-top ripeness and fruit. However, it is extremely supple, sexy and bursting with complexity, revealing notes of truffles, graphite, black raspberries, espresso roast, spice box, tapenade and bouquet garni. The wine’s richness, full-bodied, massive fruit impact and 50-second finish are amazing. (Not yet released) Stephane Ogier, tall and blond with rugged, Brad Pitt-like good looks, is the next generation of young, ambitious, well-traveled children from family-owned estates. Learning his trade and working next to his father, who is now fully retired, Stephane Ogier has moved confidently and dramatically to expand this estate from the Cote Rotie holdings to their vineyards that go into La Rosine and those from Seyssuel that go into l’Ame Soeur. He has also added a St-Joseph cuvee from a small parcel of vines in Malleval, next to his Condrieu holdings. Moreover, readers should not forget the recent white wine offerings from Ogier. The great success for the 2011s is attributable, as Ogier says, to harvesting seven days later than just about everyone else in Cote Rotie, in addition to aggressive green harvesting and farming practices in the vineyards. This is evident across the board as these are some of the finest 2011s I tasted in the Northern Rhone. Ogier has 12 separate Cote Rotie parcels spread along the hillsides of the Cote Blonde and Cote Brune. The 2011s were harvested between September 16 and October 8, and because of Ogier’s conservative farming practices as well as the courage it took to wait to harvest until after the rains, the quality of the fruit is outstanding. The 2010s are all remarkable wines at Ogier. Stephane Ogier also deserves accolades for what he has been able to achieve with his white wine program since he began it in 2007. There are now three cuvees, all outstanding. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275