The 2010 Fonte da Serrana is principally Aragonez, Trincadeira and Touriga Nacional. A bit earthy and unfortunately a bit funky - perhaps the Trincadeira rearing its head, perhaps a touch of reduction or both? - this is nonetheless rather elegantly constructed and shows good focus and a certain brightness, along with just a little more solidity than the winery's slightly lower priced entrant, the Calantica (also known as the Prova), reviewed this issue. It will always be better on the younger side. Drink now-2014. The consulting oenologist here is Rui Reguina, well known in the region for various projects, including his own Terrenus. Also note that, as with many Portuguese wineries, the brand often takes great precedence over the producer name - or even the main brand. On the Calantica, Ravasqueira will be in tiny print only on the back. While most of the wines display Ravasqueira prominently somewhere, also note that the formal corporate name is S.A. Diniz. On the winery's advice, everything is listed here under Ravasqueira.Importer: Well Oiled Wine Company, Leesburg, VA; tel. (703) 771-7090

The 2009 FONTE DA SERRANA is mainly a blend of Aragonez and Trincadeira, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet blended in, vinified and aged in stainless steel. Sunny and pure, fresh and clean, this Tinto has modest mid-palate concentration, but it shows some persistence and feels fuller in the mouth than you might initially think it was. With an hour’s air, some tannic support finally emerges. Ready to drink on release, it is quite charming, harmonious, bursting with pure flavor and likely to be a crowd pleaser. It will be at its best now and within a few years of release, but it may hold longer. It likely will be available at an attractive price, too. Drink now-2016. Ravasqueira is an estate long associated with horse racing and breeding. The wine is more recent, the first vintage having been produced in 2001, and is handled by winemakers Rui Reguinga and Carlos Rodrigues. Total production is about 200,000 bottles. In this group of “first look” releases, the winery has provided some pretty good values with their lesser wines, but struggles, I think, to justify the price gap between the big boys and the value entrants. While the big boys may be technically better and the various levels may separate themselves with age, as the lower level wines just don’t have the same structure, I’m not sure they ever will be as charming or win as many fans as the lower priced wines. Just drink the under $20 wines young and fresh, for best results.Importer: Artisan Vines Distributing, Atlanta, GA; tel: (404) 688-0232