Potentially one of the most profound Sauvignon Blanc-based wines I have tasted from California, the 2021 La Proportion Doree boasts explosive aromas of cut grass, gooseberries, tangerines and pink grapefruit. A barrel-fermented—in previously used French oak—blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle, it's medium to full-bodied and lush, with enormous richness and concentration and a potent, lingering finish. I only hope this stunning effort survives the journey into bottle looking this good.

Morlet's flagship blended white is the 2020 La Proportion Doree (The Golden Ratio), a marriage of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and a tiny splash of Muscadelle, which he co-ferments with the Sauv Blanc. Offering up understated aromas of ripe fig and melon, plus hints of crushed stone and citrus zest, this medium to full-bodied wine is a dry, richly textured white that's not as rich or concentrated as either the 2019 or 2021, but it's still a strong effort, ready to drink now through 2030.

Luc Morlet has 100 Muscadelle vines, planted in 1953, which he co-ferments with the Sauvignon Blanc to produce this stunning wine. This is all barrel fermented with native yeast. This barrel sample of 2019 La Proportion Doree is composed of 69% Semillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc and 1% Muscadelle. It prances out of the glass with gregarious scents of white peaches, pear tart and preserved lemons plus nuances of lime leaves, crushed rocks and honeycomb. The medium to full-bodied palate is tightly wound at this nascent stage, revealing layers of stone fruit and citrusy flavors with mineral accents and a long, savory finish. 780 cases are due to be made.

Luc Morlet has 100 Muscadelle vines, planted in 1953, which he co-ferments with the Sauvignon Blanc to produce this stunning wine. This is all barrel fermented with native yeast. The 2018 La Proportion Doree is composed of 65% Semillon, 34% Sauvignon Blanc and 1% Muscadelle. Wow—the nose is a knock-out, featuring intense passion fruit, ripe apple and green mango scents, followed by nuances of clover honey, lemongrass, paraffin wax and musk melon. The medium-bodied palate has a racy line cutting through the energetic tropical fruit layers with loads of zesty and savory sparks coming through on the long finish. 650 cases were made.

Luc Morlet has 100 Muscadelle vines, planted in 1953, which he co-ferments with the Sauvignon Blanc to produce this stunning wine. The 2017 La Proportion Doree is composed of 65% Semillon, 34% Sauvignon Blanc and 1% Muscadelle. It needs a little coaxing to reveal notes of candied citrus peel, lemon curd, white peaches, honeycomb and fresh hay with wafts of lime leaves and chalk dust. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is completely coated with savory, saline and citrus layers. The texture is decadently satiny with a provocative suggestion of phenolic grip, and it finishes with great persistence and poise. 650 cases were made.