This wine is rustic and made country-style but there’s something lovable about it, like a big old dog. It’s friendly and fun. The tastes are juicy and rich, the texture round and mellow, and although it’s no match for your top-notch collector’s items, it will do just fine most of the time. 32% Valdiguie, 26% Zinfandel, 29% Pinot Noir and 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. Best Buy. —S.H.——S.H.(5/1/2002)—— 86