An elaborate Pinot Noir, one of the best under $30 on the market. Dry and silky, it offers deep, complex flavors of cherries, raspberries, cola, herbs, mushrooms, bacon and sandalwood, brightened with crisp acidity. Drink over the next four years for freshness and vitality. ——S.H.(12/1/2011)—— 90

The winemaker calls this a “more masculine wine: richer, bigger,” which almost understates the case. It’s fruity to the point of bomb, offering an orchard of ripe red cherries, raspberries, red plums, cola and something tropically sweet, like red mango. It’s all liberally enhanced with the sweet vanillins of oak. Almost too much of a good thing, but saved by brisk acidity.——S.H.(3/1/2010)—— 87