This dry, tannic Merlot has simple flavors that are a bit unripe. There’s a green-bean streak that just barely breaks into coffeebean and plum. It’s not going anywhere.——S.H.(12/1/2005)—— 82

An amazingly dense and concentrated mountain wine, young and plucky in youthful tannins and acidity, and a guaranteed cellar candidate. It’s tough and gritty now, but there’s a powerful undertow of black currant and cherry fruit that will carry it easily for years. ——S.H.(12/15/2004)—— 92