The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Rock Cairn Vineyard impresses for its plush, dark fruit and open, inviting personality. The balance of fruit and tannins is exceptional here, and renders the wine immensely pleasing, even at this early stage. A voluptuous, sexy finish rounds things out in style. The Rock Cairn is one of the more feminine, graceful wines in this line up of rich Cabernets. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Tel. (707) 967-9600

Classic Nickel & Nickel Cabernet, bone dry and super tannic. Hits the mouth hard with astringency that effectively masks the ripe blackberry fruit. Half new oak adds a toasty richness, but also some hard wood tannins. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, it really needs cellaring. Try after 2015. ——S.H.(11/1/2011)—— 92