Very much in the Nicolas Potel style of fruit-driven wines, this still keeps a firm grip on the structure, which is proper to a wine from Morey Saint-Denis. There’s great freshness here, but also the ripe fruits of 2003—blueberries, dark plums—plus just a touch of wood and a flourish of acidity to finish. ——R.V.(3/1/2007)—— 94