True to the Brut philosophy, this wine offers a steely, tonic mouthfeel and a mostly neutral bouquet. The Nino Franco 2021 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Vigneto della Riva di San Floriano Brut shows white flower and citrus, but the real action here is the tight delivery of its beading. You get distant hints of wild sage and crushed stone on the close. This is a 12,000-bottle release.

Extremely delicate and soft in terms of its aromatic intensity, this Prosecco Brut offers a graceful and precise embroidery of foamy, light peach fruit and spring flowers. Yet the sparkler is quite effective in the mouth thanks to its refreshing acidity and perky bubbling.——M.L.(7/1/2009)—— 90