A terrific Syrah, and a refutation to those who say this variety is irrelevant. No, it’s not. This delicious wine, with soft tannins, fine acidity and a wealth of berry, cocoa, licorice and bacon flavors, fills a needed niche between Pinot Noir and a heavier Cabernet Sauvignon. ——S.H.(11/1/2011)—— 92