The 2011 MonteMaggiore is an Aleatico-based dessert wine that opens with a dark raspberry color and sweet tones of dried prune, cherry liqueur, raisins and light touches of tobacco and spice. It spreads evenly over the palate with thick glycerin, sweetness and density. The acidity is there, but very mild. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Located at the heart of the Tuscia Viterbese (north of Rome), Occhipinti offers a portfolio of provocative wines from Lazio. Andrea Occhipinti wants to push the boundaries of the Aleatico grape. Importer: Jan D’Amore Wines; www.jandamorewines.com

The estate’s 2009 Aleatico Monte MaggioRe is a fascinating red dessert wine. Deceptively medium in body, this exotic, ethereal wine offers up dried cherries, autumn leaves, and sweet pipe tobacco in a soft, sensual and utterly convincing expression of Aleatico, an indigenous variety in Lazio. As with all sweet wines, the volatile acidity is a touch pronounced, but the wine’s exceptional length and fine texture are nothing short of breathtaking. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Importer: Jan D’Amore Wines, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (917) 257-7994