The 2011 Alea Viva is a pure expression of Aleatico. I can’t help but be strangely attracted to this wine. At first, it seems all over the board with sweet berry aromas that recall a sweet red, dried rosemary and mint, teriyaki sauce, balsam herb, cherry cola and licorice. Give the wine a few moments in the glass and it slowly begins to show focus and an intriguing personality. In the mouth, it is off dry, crisp and polished. I’m not sure what you could pair possibly it with. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Located at the heart of the Tuscia Viterbese (north of Rome), Occhipinti offers a portfolio of provocative wines from Lazio. Andrea Occhipinti wants to push the boundaries of the Aleatico grape. Importer: Jan D’Amore Wines; www.jandamorewines.com

The 2008 Aleatico Alea Viva a gorgeous, ethereal wine that floats on the palate with suggestions of dried cherries, sweet medicinal herbs, spices and dried flowers. Despite its mid-weight style, the wine Alea Viva shows considerable depth. It is a gem from Andrea Occhipinti. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Importer: Jan D’Amore Wines, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (917) 257-7994