The creamy, mocha-scented 2002 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Canet is a dense, sappy, fleshy wine. Its detailed character slathers the taster’s palate with loads of liquid minerals, citrus fruits, pears, and white pepper. This forward, resiny wine also boasts a lengthy finish packed with spices. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

This firm has dramatically improved the quality of its winemaking. Olivier Leflaive brought in the talented Frank Greux, and the quality of their wine since 1989 has gone from one strength to another. In 1992 several of the wines will be bottled unfiltered. With three consecutive good vintages, Olivier Leflaive is now a name to be considered seriously. No specific tasting note. Importer:Frederick Wildman and Co., New York, NY