Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. There are certainly some sulfur issues on the nose of the Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain 2011 from Olivier Leflaive, and it somewhat masks the terroir expression. The palate has a touch of bitter lemon on the entry. Moderate weight but tightly wound, slightly bitter and disjointed at the moment with a finish, but there is great substance here and real minerality. This actually trumped a lot more revered Puligny premier cru in the blind flight.

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain is a gorgeous and complete wine. Layers of textured fruit wrap around the palate in what is a decidedly juicy style of Puligny. There isn't a ton of complexity in the glass, yet the wine impresses for its overall balance and sheer sense of harmony. The Champ Gain is one of the finest wines in this lineup, and arguably the best premier cru in the Domaine/Maison Olivier Leflaive range. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. This is a solid set of wines from Olivier Leflaive's negociant operation. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700