Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière from Olivier Leflaive, bottled under Diam 10 closure, was showing a bit of SO2 at first, although this dissipated with time to reveal lovely white peach, green apple and blackcurrant leaf scents. The palate is very well balanced with a rounded, caressing entry, gently fanning out with subtle white peach and tangerine notes, segueing into a very well-defined finish. Excellent—but I would afford this a couple of years in bottle for the SO2 to be addressed.

The Leflaive Leflaive's 2006 Saint-Aubin La Chatenieres proved rich, mouth-filling, and enveloping; slightly marked by its share of new wood; subtly oily in texture; and with piquant nuttiness, chalk dust, and refreshing lime in the finish. It will be well worth enjoying at least through 2010. While I did not have occasion to taste 2006 wines at his establishment, the handful of wines from Olivier Lefalive that I tasted as samples stateside included some decent values in the context of today's white Burgundy. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700