Picked at 14% natural potential alcohol, the dark-colored 2003 Pommard Rugiens (red) explodes from the glass with intense aromas of plummy cherries. Lush, broad, and ample, this medium-bodied effort is crammed with sweet blackberries, candied plums, a compote of red cherries, and spices. Chewy-textured and powerful, this is a structured wine with a long, fruit-filled finish. Drink it over the next 6+ years. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Many top Pommards were produced in 1990. While Leflaive's is not among the elite, it is still a medium-bodied, solidly made, tangy style of Pommard with spicy fruit, and adequate depth, body, and power. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. In the past I have found the wines of Olivier Leflaive to be straightforward and commercial in orientation. I was impressed with their 1990 white burgundies (to be reviewed next year). I also enjoyed the three red wines I tasted from this producer. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Co., New York, NY.