The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot (Récolte du Domaine) is a touch shut down after its recent bottling, but it opens in the glass with a promising bouquet of citrus oil, Anjou pear, fresh peach and spices, subtly framed by a deft touch of new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and tight-knit, with superb concentration and structural tension, a lively girdle of acidity and a long, precise finish. While this is quite introverted, and in that sense typical of the site, it isn't too blocky, making it an elegant rendition of Morgeot. Bottled under Diam 10, it has all the makings of a long-lived white Burgundy.

More depth and intensity than the Blanchots, more richness of fruit, so that the oak is more backgrounded. Likely to have greater longevity than the Blanchots.

A stony, chalk-infused white, with notes of peach, apple, lemon, butterscotch and pastry. Vibrant and racy, with a slightly hard edge on the lingering finish. Best from 2019 through 2028.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot from Olivier Leflaive Frères displayed a lot of reduction on the nose and it was difficult discerning what lay behind it. The palate is crisp on the entry with a fine bead of acidity, although it does not quite deliver the depth and complexity of its peers, at least at this infant stage. Graceful and elegant, I would be inclined to drink this over the next several years.