The 2006 MARATHEFTIKO is the classiest wine in the lineup presented from Olympus this issue. Bright and a bit earthy, it has some character. The mid-palate concentration is average at best, the wine most notable early on for the astringency on the finish. There is a certain bitter chocolate nuance on the finish, too, but as the wine evolves, there is also some welcome evidence of a little ripe fruit to set against the structure and earthy demeanor, along with some sweet oaky notes. When the tannins eventually moderate, the wine has some charm and less earthiness. The mid-palate thins fairly quickly, though. While I’m not sure the balance is perfect here, there are moments when it drinks rather well. Drink now-2015. Although it is noted nowhere on the labels, Etko, a big Cypriot producer founded in 1844, is the sole owner of Olympus, a newly built winery. Etko is probably most familiar to Americans for their Commandaria bottlings. Its principal also owns Olympus Hellas.Importer: Wonderful Ethnic Imports, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 683-5021