The 2007 Pago de Carraovejas Vendimia Seleccionada is blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged for 24 months in new French oak, has a lifted, vanilla-scented bouquet with blueberry and creme de cassis. The palate is full-bodied with ripe, juicy tannins although the finish needs more acidity to balance that fruit concentration. Consequently it finishes rather predictable and needs more freshness and length. Drink now-2017. Founded in 1988 in Penafiel, Pago de Carraovejas was founded by Jose Maria Ruiz. The former restaurateur released his inaugural vintage in 1993 (the 1991) and they have not looked back since. The wines comes from a single 140 hectare vineyard planted with 75% Tinto Fino and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and the wines are raised in a mixture of American and French oak, a judicious one-third renewed each year. These wines have a lot to offer: well-crafted and full of personality, the judicious use of Bordeaux varieties adds a little je ne sais quoi to the blend. These are well worth seeking out. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228 www.kysela.com

Structured, backward, and unevolved is the deep ruby/purple-colored 1999 Vendimia Seleccionada. Still primary, it offers up scents of melted road tar, licorice, black currants, leather, and spicy new oak. This full-bodied, moderately tannic 1999 needs another 2-3 years of cellaring; it should keep for 12-15 years. This winery’s less expensive bottlings have consistently made it into my value reports. I’m not sure their more expensive cuvees are that much better, although they are certainly top-flight. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228