This vintage – in a reversal from last year – I preferred Painted Wolf 2008 Pinotage to their Shiraz and Pinotage blend, which was irredeemably reduced, and slightly drying. With the pure Pinotage, one gets the classic smoky peppery notes of this variety (in principle synergistic with Syrah) with slightly sweaty and vegetal notes managing merely to add some complexity. What’s more, this wine’s sappy, saline finish leaves you happy to take the next sip. It ought to prove quite useful over at least the next couple of years, and benefits from taking on some air.Imported by Southern Starz, Huntington Beach, CA; tel. (866) 577 8279.

This is a stylish Pinotage and may turn skeptics into believers on this eccentric variety. Waves of ripe red fruit, cedar, vanilla and spice are followed by dense layers of red berry fruit, warming spices and a touch of smoke. The acid and fruit is balanced and the overall character complex but friendly. An assertive but food-oriented wine.——S.K.(3/1/2009)—— 89