The 2010 Pinot Grigio emphasizes textural richness and body over strict varietal character. I especially like the wine’s inner perfume and expressive bouquet. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2013. I can’t think of anyone who has done more to promote Italian varieties in California than Steve Clifton with his Palmina label. I admit I was intrigued with these offerings, and came away deeply impressed with most of what I tasted. I am still not 100% convinced all of these grapes have significant potential in California, but most of them do. Some of the wines remain works in progress, including the Lagrein and Sangiovese Undici.Tel. (805) 735-2030; www.palminawines.com
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