The 2008 Nebbiolo/Barbera/Syrah Savoia is 50% Nebbiolo, 25% Barbera and 25% Syrah. It’s impossible not to love this wine. Gorgeous, pure aromatics meld into a core of expressive, radiant red fruit, all supported by soft, elegant tannins. This is another striking effort. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016 . I can’t think of anyone who has done more to promote Italian varieties in California than Steve Clifton with his Palmina label. I admit I was intrigued with these offerings, and came away deeply impressed with most of what I tasted. I am still not 100% convinced all of these grapes have significant potential in California, but most of them do. Some of the wines remain works in progress, including the Lagrein and Sangiovese Undici.Tel. (805) 735-2030; www.palminawines.com

The other top red was the blend of 50% Nebbiolo and the rest equal parts Barbera and Sangiovese, the 2005 Savoia. This wine exhibits complex new saddle leather notes intermixed with strawberry, black cherry, roasted herbs, and licorice. It is deep, dark, medium to full-bodied, and just gorgeous. Best drunk in the first 3-4 years of life. Steve Clifton’s “Italian Stallion” operation in southern California is the best of its kind in the United States, and these wines seem to go from strength to strength. His excellent whites are all stainless steel fermented and really do capture much of the character that comes from the region most commonly associated with these wines, northeastern Italy.Tel. (805) 735-2030; fax (805) 735-2693

The 2004 Savoia (50% Nebbiolo, 25% Barbera, and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon) reveals a dark ruby color, a sweet perfume of black cherries, loamy soil, licorice, and herbs, and crisp, tangy acidity (a characteristic of all these reds). This attractive offering is best consumed over the next 3-4 years. If you haven’t yet discovered Palmina, these are very impressive Italian-inspired wines from one of California’s most brilliant winemakers.Tel. (805) 735-2030; Fax (805) 735-2693