Showing consistently with the review a few years ago, Clifton's entry-level 2009 Nebbiolo is fully mature on the nose and reveals lots of tobacco leaf, spice-box, licorice, dusty pebble and savory Nebbiolo fruit. It lacks a touch of freshness on the nose, but has solid depth and density on the palate, with bright acidity, the tannic grip of the variety and a good finish. Drink it over the coming 4-5 years. At the price, it's well worth checking out.

The 2008 Nebbiolo wafts from the glass with dried red cherries, crushed flowers and spices, all of which come together in an attractive, medium-bodied style well suited for near-term drinking. This is a pretty wine, but as is the case with the other Nebbioli in this range, my sense is that the wine has dried out a bit through its extended elevage in barrel. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Interestingly, Steve Clifton takes an entirely different approach with Palmina than he does at Brewer-Clifton. Whereas the Brewer-Clifton wines are much more technical and controlled in their precision, at Palmina, Clifton favors natural yeasts and follows a more hands-off approach. Clifton is equally adept with both styles, something that says a lot about his natural talent. Nebbiolo is one the Palmina specialties. As good as the Palmina Nebbioli can be, my fear is that some of these wines will ultimately prove to have very narrow drinking windows. The Nebbioli clearly need time in barrel for the tannins to soften, but by the time they do, the aromas are often quite forward. Tel. (805) 735-2030, www.palminawines.com

The 2007 Nebbiolo is a blend of fruit sourced from Sisquoc Vineyard planted with the Michet clone (60%) and from Stolpman Vineyard planted with the Lampia clone (40%). It possesses striking dark fruit and plenty of varietal character, but with an extra degree of textural density from these Central Coast sites. It is one of the finest Italian-varietal wines I have tasted in California. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. I can’t think of anyone who has done more to promote Italian varieties in California than Steve Clifton with his Palmina label. I admit I was intrigued with these offerings, and came away deeply impressed with most of what I tasted. I am still not 100% convinced all of these grapes have significant potential in California, but most of them do. Some of the wines remain works in progress, including the Lagrein and Sangiovese Undici. Tel. (805) 735-2030; www.palminawines.com