A real success, Piuze's 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre unfurls in the glass with aromas of orange oil, peach, pear, freshly baked bread, pastry cream and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's taut and concentrated, with racy acids and a pungently mineral finish.

The 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre opens in the glass with notes of citrus zest, white flowers, mint, beeswax and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and structured, with a deep core of fruit, it's tightly wound, with fine cut and back-end grip.

Piuze tells me that his 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre was the last wine in the cellar to complete its fermentation, and it's accordingly one of the most primary at this early stage, delivering a ripe bouquet of apricot, musky peaches and white flowers despite its comparatively modest potential alcohol. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with good precision that suggests it may gain in tension with a bit more age.

Aromas of fresh peach, white flowers, apple and honeycomb introduce the 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, a supple, satiny textured and medium to full-bodied wine with an ample core of fruit and succulent acids. Right now, it feels quite open-knit and approachable, though Piuze notes it has only just emerged from a very reductive phase.

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre has an attractive bouquet with light tropical notes and touches of orange blossom and apricot that evolve in the glass to reveal a subtle beeswax and jasmine scent. The palate is beautifully balanced, precise and focused with a gentle build toward the saline finish. This feels like a very harmonious Montée de Tonnerre that should spread its wings with two or three years in bottle.