The 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses wafts from the glass with aromas of oyster shell, citrus oil, crisp green apple, white currants and freshly baked bread, framed by a deft touch of reduction. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, it's taut and incisive, with a layered core of fruit, racy acids and a long, intensely mineral finish. It's worth a special effort to seek out.

Bursting with aromas of orange zest, pear, oyster shell and beeswax, Piuze's 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is full-bodied, satiny and intense, its ample core of fruit underpinned by racy acids and framed by chalky structuring, concluding with a long, pungently mineral finish. Out of the gates, this is the high point of the range—the only question is if this year's C?te de Bouqueyreaux might catch up with it in the fullness of time?

The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is superb, revealing an incipiently complex bouquet that mingles orange blossom, iodine, shrimp shell reduction and wet stones in a saliva-inducing mélange. Full-bodied, satiny and multidimensional on the palate, it's layered, elegantly textural but incisive, with racy acids for the vintage and a long, saline finish.

The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is brilliant, bursting with aromas of mandarin oil, orange peel, dried white flowers, oyster shells and blanched almonds. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and satiny, its enveloping attack segueing into a deep, tight-knit core that displays striking cut and tension—built around considerable reserves of dry extract—before concluding with a searingly mineral finish.

The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru les Preuses has a refined bouquet with lemon thyme, mint and oyster shell—very focused and detailed. The palate is fresh and poised, quite energetic on the entry and maintaining that level right up until the saline finish, which has just the right amount of bitterness to urge you back for another sip. This feels tighter than Patrick's other crus at the moment and as such, I would afford it two, possibly three years in bottle.